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Tuesday, December 6, 2022

Hermès Scarf - costumes

One of the fun aspects of getting new Hermès scarves is the research and the results.  Here is the Costumes scarf, showing women's outfits in the area of France that is part of Normandy.

This lovely scarf was  designed by Zoé Pauwels in 1989.   

The scarf is signed, "Zoé" in the bottom left corner.  

The scarf shows the outfits worn by some women of the departments of Calvados, l'Orne, and  La Manche, which are found in parts of what is Normandy today.  In this map of the departments of France, it is the left half of the rust red color labeled "Normandie."  


In the image above is the title of the scarf, showing a pile of the lovely lace "coiffes" popular in that part of France.  These hats were worn during celebrations when I was there as late as the '60s.  My father asked the woman who had sheltered him during WWII to show us her hat.  It was remarkable.  A phenomenal amount of work goes into them.


The scarf in general looks like an etching or a series of etchings, and a quick google of the title yields a book published in 1830 and reprinted in 1988.  The original contains 105 plates, hand colored.



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The picture above is at the center of the scarf,
and has HERMÈS - PARIS.




The colors were chosen by the artist and may not reflect the originals.

Note that this picture also has © HERMÈS.



Here are other ladies on the scarf.  I was unable to find original etchings.


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The green dyes used on the earlier Hermès scarves are not stable and often show fading (or washing) to yellow.  I won't feel guilty wearing this one.

These scarves always drape well.





  
To see the other Hermès scarves I have blogged, 
click here.

Tuesday, November 22, 2022

Hermès Scarf - La Ronde des Heures

Hermès scarf - La Ronde des Heures- was designed by Loïc Dubigeon in 1986. 
Parmis les Fleures, Je Compte les Heures, 
Among the Flowers, I Count the Hours  
or is it the other way around?  I count the hours, among the flowers.  The poem is printed around the center clock, with  "Hermès" and "à Paris".

The source image is from a clock face made in the time period 1678-1721, probably by Louis Chapotot.

"Louis Chapotot began working in 1670 in Paris. Chapotot apprenticed with Guillaume Ménard in 1670 and was then appointed Master of the Corporation des Fondeurs. Chapotot and his son Jean (active. 1676 – 1721) were highly regarded instrument makers who occupied premises “sur Le Quay de l’Horloge, Ile de La Cite, a La Sphere, Paris” according to their trade card, see final image. Surviving instruments show their elite clientele included the Russian Tsar, Peter the Great and the court of the Qing Emperor.  
https://www.fleaglass.com/ads/early-gunners-sector-by-chapotot-circa-1700/






The title of the scarf, "la ronde des heures" (circle of hours)  is at the bottom, center.


Most of these timepieces are watches that close with very ornate covers.
Some look to be designed to be worn at the belt as a chatelaine.





Most Hermès scarves are signed by the artist.
On this scarf the signature is almost impossible to find.
A great resource is Hermès scarf guides on facebook.
There I was able to find that on this scarf, the signature is written in black on navy blue.  Wow!


The care tag is intact.  This long tag has A.
There have been suggestions that exceptional rouletesses got a letter.
This has not been confirmed,


© Hermès 
is in the lower left corner.


The reverse side of the scarf.

Like all Hermès scarves, this drapes well and is fun to wear.





To see the other Hermès scarves I have blogged, 
click here.




Thursday, November 17, 2022

Hermès Scarf - Le Mors "à la Conétable" - Plissé

This lovely Hermès scarf, entitled "Le Mors "à la Conétable"" is a "plissé" or pleated scarf.  I believe it depicts the horse bits for the constable's horse.  In earlier times, the constable was in charge of the stable!  A very responsible job.  So maybe his horse gets fancier bits to chomp on than other horses do.

Pleated scarves are usually stored curved into a circle - hence the round box.

It was designed by Henri d'Origny in 1970.  It was also reissued in 1985 and there were probably later issues.


The title is printed at what would be the bottom of the scarf:


It does have the copyright:   © HERMES.

The photo above also shows that the previous owner wore lipstick.
The spotted or otherwise damaged ones become "wearers," so I don't mind small flaws if I like the design.

.
The care tag has been removed from this scarf.

It is also identified with Hermès - Paris.

The draping and tying is different with a plissé.  And it's lots of fun to play with.















For comparison, I found a photo of a non-pleated "Le Mors "à la Conétable"."



To see the other Hermès scarves I have blogged, 
click here.


Wednesday, November 2, 2022

Hermès - Les Fêtes du Roi Soleil

 This lovely Hermès scarf celebrates the festivals or parties of the "Roi Soleil," the Sun King, Louis XIV of France.


Most scarves have a title incorporated into the design. 
 
The title of this scarf is prominent in the center of the scarf.
At the center, bottom, is the company "HERMÈS - FRANCE."


The scarf was designed for Hermès in 1995 by Michel Duchène.  He has signed the scarf, M Duchène, on the drum, in the top right corner.

....


The care tag is also on this corner, as it usually is.  This care tag has the letter B.  It has been suggested that the letters are assigned to exceptionally talented seamstresses who hand-roll the edges and stitch the hems as well as add the care tag.  But you can't believe everything you read on the internet.  It's a nice story, though. . . is it true?

This scarf is damask, with the design being "fireworks."
The damasks are expensive to produce, so they are rarely, if ever, faked.
My interest began in collecting the damasks, because I knew I would not be buying a counterfeit, but I have broadened my search.  I think I can identify fakes accurately and avoid them;

The corners have instruments to make delightful music for the fêtes.

In the corners, there are a horn,  a drum, and stringed instruments.
Took a while to find - the copyright mark is on the "horn" of this instrument.



If you know the names of these instruments, I hope you will put the name(s) in the comments or send an email.

Like all Hermès scarves, this hangs and drapes well.





To see other scarves
I have blogged,
There are lots of them!