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Friday, April 18, 2014

Symbol of Hospitality


Most of us are familiar with the pineapple as a symbol of hospitality.  It is very frequently seen in colonial  America.

The symbol of abundance and wealth in Pompeii is not the pineapple.

This symbol is seen in many places.

And this symbol can also be used to point you in the right direction.


In this case it points you to the brothel.

It's a different world view.

There is a video available on youtube about Roman sexuality.
They missed pointing out that Pompeii was a port city with a large transient population, as well as a large slave population.


Day 4 - Pompeii


We took the bus from the hotel to Pompeii.  During the trip, our tour guide, an archeologist, gave us background information on Pompeii and the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, in the year 79AD.  The eruption of the volcano buried Pompeii under 13-20 feet of ash and pumice.  The toxic fumes killed anyone who remained in the city.

A large part of the city remains unexcavated.  You can get an idea from the following picture.  The storefronts have been exposed, but the ash and pumice that makes the hill today remains.

The fronts may be houses or may be a shop, like the following picture.
It contains holes for amphorae holding food or beverages.
 There is a counter to lean on while you are waiting to be served or where you can stand and eat.
 Various interesting pieces of marble have been inlaid to make a terrazzo type countertop.

The streets from the hill down to the water are designed to carry rainwater and sewage.  Since the street may be wet, there are stepping stones to cross the street.  The space between stones is designed to accommodate the spacing of the wheels of carts and chariots.  This became standard throughout the Roman Empire (and has led to the spacing of railroad tracks in this country today).

The person in the picture is our dynamic group leader.
 Some of the 23 members of our group are in the distance.

Another shop has plain marble countertops.
There is also a superb fresco.




This particular building is closed today - they rotate the number of open buildings depending on the availability of guards.

Note the mosaic floor - note the image in the near part with what looks like an open shutter.   It is amazing to me that we were allowed to walk on two thousand year old mosaic floors.  The square in the middle of the floor is the impluvium where rainwater drops from the hole in the ceiling to provide cooling rainwater in the public rooms.  Note also the front and rear doors to provide air circulation.  There is usually a table near the pool with food and a place to wash your hands.
There are always some white tiles in the mosaics to reflect light at night.
That sounds like a good idea.
~ ~ ~

This is the court in the forum.  
Note that there are no stairs to the "porch".  Since some decisions by the courts are not going to be popular with everyone, it is made difficult for the participants to reach the judges, who sit in judgment at tables behind the columns.  To increase the likelihood that judges cannot be bribed or otherwise influenced, the judge is appointed to the case immediately before being seated.  In that way, in theory, no one can get to him in advance.  



In 62AD, there was a huge earthquake that damaged or destroyed much of Pompeii.  It is estimated that it was 5 or 6 on the Richter Scale.  The city was largely rebuilt by the time of the eruption in AD79.  What is interesting is that they used the new material - bricks - for the repairs.  Note the column bases (above) and much of the oven (below).  In that way, you can tell, today, what predates AD62.
People did not cook food at home.  That explains the large number of food places.  The  picture below is a communal oven.  
People may have mixed and risen the bread at home and brought it to the oven for baking.  If so, it was marked in some way (perhaps with their initials) so that they could get the correct loaf from the baker.  (There are interesting youtube videos on baking bread as it was done 2000 years ago.  The videos show the shaping and marking as it probably was done then.  They know what the result was because some loaves survived in Herculaneum.)  On the far left of the picture above you can see part of a grinding wheel.  A log was put through the hole and animals turned the wheel to grind the wheat.


~ ~ ~

At the entrance to the excavation, it may be advisable to stop for a potty break.

-
This is a one-person, circular building with a skylight.

Note - there is no toilet seat.
This is the case in most of the public toilets we saw.
It is also a good idea to carry some paper with you, just in case. . . 


After a four hour hike of three miles, or perhaps it was a three hour hike of four miles. . . we were ready for lunch!




Friday morning in Sorrento


Breakfast was hurried because we left at 8AM for Pompeii.  I had cafe latte, OJ, fresh fruit salad, ham, provolone, a delicious cheese similar to Havarti, and, for starch, I chose cookies.  I figured it was not very different from croissants (which I had yesterday, with cherry jam.). Everyone should eat cookies for breakfast.

Then to Pompeii, where we walked for four hours.  It will take me a while to sort the pictures and write about the day.

After Pompeii, we went to a local trattoria where we had prosciutto and melon, salad, and our first taste of Pizza Marguerita.  Dessert was gellato.
I was very hungry,  especially since it was 1:30, but it does not hold a candle to Nina's. (I had already eaten 1/3 before I took the picture.)

Now off to a lecture on the customs of Sorrento.

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Dinner on Thursday at the Grand Hotel Cesare Augusto in Sorrento


All this walking leaves me hungry!   I was definitely ready for dinner.

I chose the linguini della donna.

The sauce is tomatoes lightly cooked in oil with capers and olives.  Delicious.

For "secundo" I decided to try the grilled mozzarella.

Look at the size of the portion!  It came with spinach and mashed potatoes.  I could not possibly eat that much, but it was delicious.  

Dessert was creme caramel, but I chose fresh fruit instead.

Our group leader said that we would not be getting fresh fish.  It is too expensive.

I guess I'll have to enjoy them in the market and imagine,



Actually we have two dinners and two lunches "on your own", but my thinking is that a gelato would make a wonderful meal.  Or two. . .

Thursday Morning in Sorrento


After breakfast we had an orienting lecture about things like banks, telephone.  We also got more information about the schedule.

At 10:15 we left for a two hour orientation walk.  Whew!

We saw the Cloisters.  The willowy tree is a pepper tree.


This is the Antica Mura. . . part of the ancient wall protecting the city.


Tonight is the first of two processions.  The first one begins at 3AM, The White Procession, representing The Madonna's search for her son.  There will be hundreds of men processing, wearing hooded robes, carrying the Madonna statue.  They will wear white robes and carry various symbols, as they parade through the streets chanting.

On Good Friday, in the evening, is the Black procession.  Black because they are in mourning.  This one is at 9:00 pm, so that may be doable.

The fresh fish was on display/sale in the market.


 The produce is beautiful.
The large lemonlike fruit is citron.  The regular lemons are huge.  They are used to make limoncello.

We got down to the sea.
Notice the zig-zag steps down the cliff.  (But for one Euro you can take an elevator.)

Of course, when you walk down to see the views, you also have to walk back!

I went to an ATM and got 100 Euros.  In Italy, it is pronounced Ay- OO - rho 

Lunch was excellent.

Now I am enjoying the sun on the balcony as I write this.
This is the view from my balcony.
The mesh tarps cover the lemon trees to protect them from the wind.


I have an hour until the next sets of lectures on Greek and Roman art and archaeology.  This will be followed by dinner.  There will be a special Maundy Thursday experience tonight, visiting three to five sepulchers.  This is an experience I'll skip . . .  It's a hike from 8:30 to 10 or 11!

We will leave at 8:00 AM tomorrow for Pompeii.

buffet breakfast at the Hotel Cesare Augusto

Even after a large dinner

which began with a beef, arugula and parmesan salad



breakfast was welcome.

The coffee pot of insanely strong coffee was brought to the table with a pitcher of hot, frothy milk.  The rest of the meal is self serve.


There are fruit and cereals, meats and cheeses.
Eggs and breads and sweets.


After breakfast is a lecture on Sorrento.  This will be followed by a walk and return to the hotel for lunch.

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Grand Hotel Cesare Augusto, Sorrento, Italy



We arrived in Sorrento on Wednesday.  We will be staying here until Thursday morning.

They gave us our key.  It is solid brass, and it's very heavy.  You leave it at the desk when you go out.


I immediately checked out my room.

The floors in the room and on the balcony are tiles.  They keep the rooms very clean.


The bathroom is large.  Notice the flush buttons on the wall behind the toilet.

The bathtub is large, with a decent shower.

It is wonderful to have a balcony.
Each morning, I can check out the world, and I can sit out during free time to enjoy the view of the lemon trees and the hillside.


The lemon trees are protected from the wind with mesh tarps.  Did you know that the lemon tree can have buds, flowers, ripening fruit, and fully ripe fruit at the same time? 

We Re here from Wednesday to Thursday, when we leave for the Amalfi Drive.